A Train Crossing, Kanpur, Utar Pradesh, India

06.00AM, Airport Mumbai.scooters, bicycles. Cars are still a luxury here, the
I  made it in time, driving from the Hotel in Worli.traffic mainly consisting of scooters and bicycles, and
Mumbai is one of the largest cities on our globe andby passers on foot.
leaves an unforgettable impression behind. In daytimeThe heat now subsiding, Mr. Rakej explains the
the streets are bustling with activity, the stench ofvarious sights of Kanpur, its history. We enter the
car fumes, the ever present pollution, the trafficrestaurant, and the following dinner is a delight. The
jams, are all but pleasant surprises in thisbaby Naans (tiny flat breads baked in the Tandoor),
overcrowded city.Navratan Khoorma, (Nine Jewels), Rogan Josh (Lamb
Jet Airways is always late, Modi-Luft has just takenStew), the various Indian dishes I savour frequently.
off to an unknown destination, I observe the franticIf one thing strikes me of India, it is their cuisine. The
activities inside the airport. People rushing, upliftingIndian kitchen is one of the best this world has to
their Ego in front of the Airline counters, a normaloffer.
sight in Indians airports. Everyone is a Tycoon,A visit of the famous Hindu temple in Kanpur is on
everyone displays a show of force to attractour next Agenda. The temple is known amongst
attention. In a country of 1,3 Billion, a vital techniqueHindus for its unique design structure.
of survival.We reach the railway crossing, just when the barriers
After a 3 hour delay our plane finally takes off, inmove down, accompanied by loud ringing of the bell.
India 12 hours delays are common. The plane is aPeople rushing through the barrier, lifting it up to pass,
737-300 extended version, on the way to Lucknow,crossing from both sides of the tracks. No one cares
U.P. we touch down in New Delhi.about the oncoming train, as Mr. Rakej .explains,
We reach Lucknow airport arolund 3PM. My contactevery year people are being killed by the trains. As
in Kanpur has not shown up. Lucknow airport is notthe minutes pass on, and no show of reduction of
an International airport, its facilities are limited. Bringhuman traffic across the rails follows, I am getting
your own Rupees, there is no Bank to change youranxious more and more. Yet the people still no sign
foreign currency. Taxi touts swarm around me,of stopping to cross. The tracks are now vibrating,
Hello Sir, Taxi to Lucknow Sir. I decide to wait showthe trains whistle blowing not far, there, one motor
lack of interest. I will gain this way. When all thescooter with family, man, woman and child, cross
passengers have left, after haggling with their drivers,with their scooter. I want to close my eyes, and
I walk out of the terminal and find quietly a Fiatthere another type with a bicycle enters the danger
cabby, who agrees to take me to Lucknow for azone. Then, in a flash the train speeds through the
decent fare. After years in Africa I find the samecrossing, at great speed, well over 120 mph. I can't
rules apply here when it comes to negotiating.see a thing in the dark, almost I am certain those
I ask to stop at the first communication center, ISD,people have been hit.
or IDD telephone center, to call my contact. ItWhen it is all over, the train has passed, I notice the
appears the driver would not come and instead hebicyclist, who holds his bike across his chest, inches
asks the Cabby to take me to Kanpur, a 150 kmto the train's carriages. An unbelievable experience,
from here.this will stay in my memories forever. I was
The first impression of Lucknow is, the many streetbreathless so to speak, not being able to
side shops in which Sarees are being sold. The craftcomprehend the situation. Yet, my guide was
of Sarree making here is known throughout India,unimpressed, noticing this is an everyday experience
and represents an important part of business. Wewith the resulting consequences for those who can't
pass the streets of this city, the usual sceneries withmake it. If something ever struck me about this
cows strolling through the streets, people respectfullycountry, it must have been this incident.
giving way to them. Nobody would touch a cowThe show of disrespect for life is over, we carry on
here, a clear taboo. Donkey carts, with the driverto see the biggest Hindu temple in Kanpur. White
asleep in the carts, are plying the route towardsmarble from the onset, every one removes his
Kanpur. The immense afternoon sun radiates 45shoes, and I am thinking if I should leave my pair of
degrees I notice by a thermometer located on aMoreschis or not. The temple entrance is a haven for
public building, no surprise to me.rats, these rats are everywhere in here, crawling and
After 3 hours drive we reach Kanpur, my destination.running around in masses. The temple honors rats,
The driver takes me to my hotel as instructed, afterthey have a sacred status and are fed and looked
paying the fare which is reasonable I am shown intoafter by the temple's keepers. Donations are
my room. Thirty storey tall, the hotel is the bestaccepted for their upkeep. Apart from the rat
lodge in the city, and stands out from the low levelinfestation, the temple is a complex of marvel. Built
buildings around. I notice the large numbers ofto the highest standards, with no expense spared
buzzards circling above the hotel, using the thermalswhite marble throughout, I look stunned. In contrast
to their advantage.to the outside world, the Kanpur temple represents
Still the afternoon sun is high, the air condition helpsthe most lavishly built structure I have seen. The
me to cool down a bit.stark contrast of everyday poverty visible is amazing.
At 18.30 PM I am to meet Mr. Rakej the rep of theAnd as it is Friday night, people are streaming to
company who I will visit. A very pleasant man, hepray, lighting their brought incense. The scent of
apologizes for the inconvenience of not being pickedexotics, the scent of India is all present wherever
up. We leave for dinner in his car, the obligatory Fiat,you go.
in immaculate condition.Mr. Rakej has completed his prayers, and we leave,
Kanpur - The Railway crossingthe impressions linger with me till this day, and Kanpur
We pass through the now darkened city, aswill be in my memories forever.
everywhere we see whole families moving byA travel to India, by HR.