| "body"> | | | | time of year, but especially in verdant Galicia, Spain's |
| Although they say it's the journey that matters and | | | | equivalent to our Pacific Northwest. |
| not the destination, I, too, had my doubts. I'd | | | | During my first Camino experience in 1999 and again |
| backpacked extensively across Europe from Finland | | | | this past summer, I met a virtual UN of peregrino |
| to Greece and Ireland to Bulgaria and collected | | | | travelers, ranging from twenty-something students |
| passport stamps at a dizzying rate. That was until I | | | | to a good-humored school administrator in his sixties |
| heard about Spain's Camino de Santiago. And what a | | | | who hiked nearly a thousand miles from Dijon, France. |
| difference that trip made. | | | | I was amazed to meet a couple in their 70s who'd |
| If your idea of exploring Europe is already met by a | | | | hiked and biked from Holland and was impressed to |
| "been there, done that" response, think again. There's | | | | see a pilgrim with MS on a specially-designed bicycle. |
| a unique option whose concept started long before | | | | What attracts folks to the Camino? For many, it is |
| the advent of EurRail passes and city-a-day college | | | | the solitude, simplicity and chance to simply unplug, |
| party tours. Try walking all or part of the Camino de | | | | unwind and shut out the distractions of an |
| Santiago across northern Spain for an intimate, | | | | increasingly intrusive world. For others it is a chance |
| at-your-own-pace exploration of a country steeped in | | | | to meditate, search for answers, to give thanks, or |
| magnificent beauty, art, and history. | | | | find inspiration. This is the perfect venue, since it is |
| Traveling the "Way of St. James" originated over a | | | | ideally more of a walking meditation than a marathon. |
| thousand years ago when pilgrims or peregrinos from | | | | For some, it is the chance to discover precious, |
| throughout Europe set off from their homelands | | | | little-seen art and architecture, such as Astorga's |
| toward the edge of then-known world and Santiago | | | | magnificent Bishop's Palace built by renowned |
| de Compostela. They came in search of miracles, as | | | | architect Antonio Gaudi. It's an opportunity to stroll |
| penance, or in devotion to St. James the Apostle | | | | ancient Roman roads and appreciate twenty-arch |
| who is entombed in the cathedral. Pilgrims in those | | | | stone bridges like the Paso Honroso, commemorating |
| early days, who included even royalty and popes, | | | | a month-long jousting tournament in 1434. Or explore |
| faced bandits, extreme illness, wolves, difficult river | | | | 13th century castles such as the one in Ponferrada |
| crossings and dangerous encounters with the Moors. | | | | built by the Knights Templar, or the elaborate |
| Fortunately today those challenges no longer exist, | | | | fountains, frescoes, sculpture and relics sequestered |
| allowing millions to make this journey with much less | | | | in tiny Romanesque churches along the way. |
| life-threatening hardship. | | | | For others, it's the opportunity to take part in a rich |
| Many begin their odyssey from St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port | | | | tradition of wandering the same path in the same |
| just across the French border in the rugged | | | | spirit (and earning the same aching muscles and |
| Pyrenees, or in Roncesvalles on the Spanish side. In | | | | blisters). Lasting friendships are forged as you join an |
| either, you can register and obtain a Pilgrim's | | | | international brotherhood of millions of peregrinos |
| credencial that identifies you as a peregrino and | | | | from over the past millennium. |
| allows you to stay in albergues or refugios, those | | | | Whatever the reason for your personal journey, one |
| hostels with bunk beds or modest inns along this | | | | lasting highlight is Spain's rich culture. If you're lucky, |
| 500-mile path. | | | | you might arrive in a village during their version of the |
| Each day you set out in the cool early morning air | | | | running of the bulls, or during a Saint's Day festival, as |
| either alone, in couples, or a group, depending on | | | | I did in Puenta la Reina, aglow with savory cuisine, |
| your inclination. Hey, this is no guided tour. Everyone | | | | great local wine, traditional costumes, serenades from |
| sets their own pace shepherded by well-marked | | | | street musicians and concerts in the plaza. |
| arrows or signposts. This well-worn path wends its | | | | Or explore traditional delicacies, from the wonderful |
| way through vineyards overflowing with grapes | | | | selection of rustic chorizo (sausage) and hearty |
| ready for harvest, among apple and pear orchards, | | | | sheep cheeses of the distinctive Basque region to |
| across fields thickly scented with thyme, past a | | | | Portomarin's enormous almond pastries, Torta de |
| checkerboard of fresh vegetables, then over the | | | | Santiago, decorated with sword and shepherd's staff. |
| desolate, windswept meseta or plateau. It climbs | | | | Discover the delicious variety of affordable tapa |
| thousands of feet to secluded mountain Brigadoons, | | | | (appetizer) bars. Experience grilled pulpo (octopus) in |
| such as El Cebreiro with its traditional Celtic round | | | | a rowdy pulperia. Sip delicious viño tinto wines |
| stone houses. Then it descends to tree-lined Galician | | | | across Rioja, Burgos and the bodegas of the Mesa, |
| pastures dotted with hórreos, those | | | | or apple cider and delicate white wines poured at |
| elaborate grain storage bins resting on stilts. | | | | arm's length into pottery saucers in Galicia. It's |
| Setting out at an easy-going pace with my ultra-light | | | | doubtful that you'll ever find these at home. |
| eleven-pound backpack, I trekked only twelve miles | | | | Whatever your motivation, friendly villagers will |
| at first, reaching a comfortable public albergue in the | | | | occasionally surprise you with a "Buena Camino!" from |
| early afternoon. These simple inns are located in | | | | their modest doorstep or second floor window, or |
| unusual settings, from historic 16th century convents | | | | graciously fill your water bottle. Peregrinos have trod |
| to hospitals run today by the Knights of Malta to | | | | this path for a thousand years and these towns have |
| modern prefab complexes run by volunteers. All | | | | a long tradition of hosting travelers. |
| provide basic dormitory-style bunk bed | | | | When you arrive in the university city of Santiago de |
| accommodations and showers. Many even include | | | | Compostela, whatever your personal belief, one |
| common kitchens, laundry facilities or | | | | emotionally charged finale is to attend the Peregrino |
| Internet-connected computers. So never fear, you're | | | | Mass, featuring the world's largest incense burner, the |
| never further out of touch than you choose. They | | | | Botafumeiro, swung back and forth across the |
| hold 20-800 travelers each night. (So bring earplugs.) | | | | transept by eight men. Then join the throngs in |
| Charges are modest, from a simple donation to $6-8 | | | | paying a visit to the Apostle St. James' tomb. Later, |
| a night. Bedding is usually not provided, so it's a good | | | | with your Pilgrim's Credential filled with stamps from |
| idea to bring a sleeping bag. | | | | all of your albergue stays and church visits in hand, |
| It wasn't until a few days later that I began to slowly | | | | go to the Office of Peregrinos to receive your official |
| increase my distance to twenty miles each day or | | | | certificate or Compostela as proof of your journey. |
| more-but then again, that was my choice. You set | | | | Afterwards, you can relax and enjoy the culture and |
| your own pace. | | | | dining of this beautiful town, or do as I did on my |
| How long does it take? Perhaps, as little as 26-30 | | | | most recent journey and trek another three days to |
| days if you plan to do it in one stretch. Or take as | | | | Finisterre - the "end of the world" (in days before |
| long as you wish. Many hike two weeks one year | | | | Columbus). And no, beyond there I didn't find any |
| and two the next. Bicyclists typically spend two | | | | dragons. |
| weeks whizzing along the trail. But it's always | | | | It's easy to get to the trailhead, just fly to Madrid or |
| essential to carry as little as needed | | | | Barcelona. Most frequent connections to Roncesvalles |
| So who walks the Camino de Santiago today? | | | | are through Madrid. Take a bus to Pamplona, then a |
| Thousands of students and travelers of every age | | | | bus the next day (only 1 daily) to Roncesvalles. Bus |
| come from around the world. In just one typical | | | | connections are also available though Barcelona. Or, |
| year, there were over 25,000 folks from | | | | fly to London and catch an inexpensive flight to |
| seventy-two countries. They trek the Camino year | | | | Bayonne, France, not far from St.-Jean-Pied-de-Port. |
| round, but July and August are very crowded and | | | | As always, it is the journey that matters, not the |
| hot, with no shade in many sections of the trail. I | | | | destination. Remember this, and with any luck you'll |
| strongly recommend May-June or September treks. | | | | find whatever answers you seek. As a wise man |
| The weather is better and the crowds are fewer. Fall | | | | once said, "Solvitur ambulando" or "It is solved by |
| temperatures range from 80 to 40 degrees (F), and | | | | walking." Try it for yourself and see. |
| winters can be quite cold with snow. Plan on rain any | | | | |