Travel Nepal - Manakamana 'a Wish From the Heart'

I have traveled along Nepal's “East-West”the temple, some chanting and others ringing the
highway many times from its capital of Kathmanduhundreds of bells that are found around the structure
to the popular lakeside town of Pokhara, but I amand courtyard creating a pleasant harmonious
usually fortunate enough to sleep for most of the 5atmosphere. Women were dressed in their lovely
hour journey – spectacular for the first fewvibrant red saris and curta's while some sadhu men
times, but redundant otherwise. The last time I camewere sitting in the shade of a massive tree along the
to Pokhara, I saw a curious sight that seemed a littlecourtyard perimeter taking in the sight. The overall
out of place in this country – a cable car. Itfeeling of the place was surprisingly magical and upon
stretched from the Trishuli River that runs along thewalking closer to the temple itself you could feel a
highway and extended up the steep slope of astrong energy – a spiritual pull. At this moment I
surrounding mountain, how I missed this on one ofsilently believed that the rumors could be true and
my non-sleeping trips before is a mystery to me.the possibility of my wish being granted was very
“What is that for?!” I practically yelled,likely. I started imagining my wish and concentrating
waking up all of my fellow passengers. My auntall of my vigor on why I had made this trip and what
informed me it takes you to a hilltop town whereI really wanted.
people go when they have an important wish theyI placed a small donation on my puja basket and
want granted. The steep walk to the top used togave it to my cousin to carry it for me into the
take a whole day so the cable car really saves youactual temple. Imagining what my life would be like
time (and helps protect you from exhaustion). Evenwhen my wish came true I started to circle the
though Nepal has numerous temples and deities thattemple clockwise. I walked around the outer border
are said to be ideal places to wish for different thingsof temple grounds while my cousins wife walked our
in your life – Manakamana and its goddess inbaskets to the edges of the temple where she
particular are said to really grant wishes.would wait in the line with the other Hindu devotees
In Nepali, Mana means wish and kamana means fromto bring our wishes to the Goddess. I proceeded to
the heart, wish from the heart.walk around the temple and noticed on the back side
At this point I was not all that convinced that thethrough the clouds, I would have had spectacular
place was genuine about the wish-granting but youmountain views had I visited during a clearer season.
never know. I was determined to see for myself. II kept to the right and passed the protected area
wasted no time trying to get a group together to gowhere devotees make their sacrifices to Shakti the
to the temple. I had a wish that I desperatelyGoddess.
wanted to come true and I suspected I was not theAfter coming full circle, I again noticed the massive
only one!lone tree that provided the only shade for the
The day I finally organized a group to go, alsocourtyard and to the left of this giant there was a
happened to fall on one of Nepal's many holidaysdesignated 'pigeons for sale' area. Apparently, some
– Teej – also known as the Women'swishes require not a sacrifice but to buy a soul and
Festival. For this festival, women dress up in red sari'sand set it free. You could purchase one of these fat
or curta's and pray for a long life for their husbandsover-sized birds and set it free which also makes the
and brothers or if you have no husband you pray forGoddess happy to grant wishes. The bird sanctuary
a good one to come along. I have many brothers(I use this term lightly) is ironically just on the other
(and cousins count as brothers in Nepal) and I hadside of a low fence from the sacrificing grounds and I
recently gotten married so it was the perfectam sure that after they are purchased and freed,
opportunity to indulge in the local traditions ofthey come right back to their same perch.
wearing red and to pray for their long lives as well asWhen my cousin came out of the temple from
make my important wish at this sacred Hindu temple.bringing our prayers to the Goddess, we all gathered
I brought along with me some of my familytogether again to make our Teej prayers. We lit our
members who had their own profound wishes, mycandles by using the flame from the countless
cousins wife, my aunt and my husband. We cruisednumber of other candles that had been burning all
to the top of the mountain in the cable cars. The ridemorning from other wishers. We then continued to
was surprisingly longer than expected because whenlight a hand-sized bundle of incense that had been
we reached the 'top' there was a second inclinetucked away in our goodie-prayer baskets. We
waiting for us to climb to get to the end of our cablemoved our hands over the smoke from the incense
car journey.to offer blessings to the Goddess and then we pulled
As we approached the peak of the first summit, wesome of them back towards ourselves. It felt like I
were nearly 20 feet from a small village and passedwas in a trance and the smell of the wax, the sweet
over property of some of the homes. My firstincense and the gentle smoke that surrounded us
thought was that I would not want to live right therekept me conscious and in the moment, making me
and have strangers passing through my life looking atreally think about what we were praying for. Our
me through a plastic box. But that was just myhusbands' and brothers' long life.
opinion and the cable car did not stop for me toAt this point I got lucky and received permission
change my idea. We sailed over lush green rice fields,from some of the local wishers and was able to walk
dirt ground and orange trees, and as we got higher,on the temple grounds. Here, I tied a ribbon on one
the vegetation turned into long-grass covered floorof the many bells, for my husband and brothers. I
with puffy pine-like trees that had a distinctlyrang it proudly.
different color of green from the forest we hadAfter we collected our belongings, we headed back
already passed.down the steps to the top of the cable car to the
As we stepped off to the mountain top town weline-less ride ready to take us down the mountain.
were greeted by the sweet scent of incense.We sat in a peaceful silence and thought about the
Merchants lined the pathway selling baskets filled withwishes we had asked for while we passed the
ritual-necessities for puja (prayer) that werechanging vegetations.
especially spruced up for the Teej festival. ThereWe approached the hilltop homes that I had criticized
were also stalls of goats and chickens for sale if youron the way up and with one quick swoop over the
wish requires a sacrifice to the Goddess. Each of uslast edge before the end of our journey, I realized
bought one of the pre-made baskets for our wishesthat living here would not be so bad. Their view of
and we all started the stair climb to the temple.the valley below, the Trishuli River, the curves of the
Our route wound through narrow rock slab streets“East-West” highway that cut in and out of
with brightly painted restaurants offering thethe opposite mountain side, and the orange trees
traditional Nepali meal of dal bhat and souvenir shopsmade the plastic boxes of strange people not seem
selling unique gifts and beautiful woven handmadeso bad. I again imagined what it would be like to live
baskets.here and I realized the villagers are privileged to live
After the semi-quiet walk up through the town withhere. They are surrounded with unique beauty and
not many people around, the temple suddenlyjust below a powerful energy-filled temple with a
appeared and was surrounded with tens of wisherswish granting Goddess that allows hope and beliefs
all gathered in this one area. Devotees were circlingto thrive.